Cuvée: Small Town Sophistication

There are dozens of bars and restaurants in Austin with spectacular wine lists and fine food, so why would you drive all the way to Fredericksburg for dinner at Cuvée? Because it's worth it! How about a wine list of over 500 varieties from all over the world? Or a menu that changes weekly, to keep you coming back for more? If you haven't been to Fredericksburg in awhile, the place is no longer just the domain of bratwurst and peaches. Shops along Main Street are flourishing with art and antique shoppers and visitors from Austin and San Antonio. Wine connoisseurs know where to go: the little bistro on the corner of Milam and Main-Cuvée.

Len White, Owner and Sommelier, pours champagne for some returning patrons sitting at the bar. He watches as they sip and taste. They nod politely and say, "It's okay." But "okay" isn't good enough for White who opens another bottle and says with a smile, "If you don't like it, you can't have it."

White's mission is to break down the myths around wine. "We want to be the anti-restaurant by empowering our guests and sharing our knowledge and passion," he says. "Guests should be able to make their own decisions about products and services, rather than have it dictated to them."

One of only about 20 certified sommeliers in Texas, White has put together a portfolio of hundreds of excellent wines from every great wine region in the world, and will help you navigate through the multi-page list. He describes himself as more of a wine geek than a sommelier. "I like to break down the rules of wine tasting, pairings, and social status," he says. "Wine is for everyone. The best wine in the world is what you like, not what others say you should like." To that end, White will help you pair the perfect wine with your meal in his casual and accessible style.

Working with Chef Dean Brunner, White and the Cuvée team present a constantly changing menu especially created with wine pairing in mind. Brunner, a former Sous Chef of the French Room at the Adolphus Hotel in Dallas, describes the menu as "American tapas," where diners enjoy sharing and tasting several plates and flavors. Brunner's wife Kimberley is responsible for Cuvée's scrumptious desserts, breads, and pastries. She arrives before dawn to start baking loaves of Shiner Bock bread or Texas goat cheese and pineapple sage bread.

Chef Brunner has already developed a devoted following for his inspired combinations of the freshest ingredients, from wild-caught salmon to herbs cut from the kitchen garden. People flock in all evening, and a no-reservation policy allows wine tasters and diners to mingle and take the evening at whatever pace appeals to them.

Besides the fine dining and wine, there are plenty of other reasons to visit Cuvée. At the back of the restaurant is the Cuvée Market where you'll find top quality olive oils and balsamic vinegars, sea salts and spices, dipping sauces, fresh local produce, meats, and cheeses, and, of course, an outstanding selection of wine.

Formerly an antique shop, Cuvée has thick, cool limestone walls that seal you away from the real world and into the pleasure of wine and food. The copper lighting fixtures create intimate warmth. The dining space is relatively small, but they make good use of it through low walls and partitions to create cozy and private dining spaces. The granite bar is a great place to meet friends and enjoy the personal and impeccable service.

If you are just passing through, Cuvée is also open for lunch 11-2. They'll also help you pack the perfect picnic from the market ingredients.

For a special occasion-or just for the heck of it-reserve the Chef's Table in the cellar tasting room. The Cuvée team will provide the ultimate in private dining and luxurious wine tasting.

White's enthusiasm for wine is contagious. Thankfully, part of Cuvée's mission is education and they offer an ongoing schedule of wine appreciation and cooking classes. Wine classes include Basic Wine 101 and summer whites. Food appreciation and cooking demonstrations include bread baking and summer desserts. There is always something to sample at their classes.

Cuvée's wine list and menus are available online at www.cuveewine.net. You can also subscribe to their e-mail newsletter to keep up with news and events. If you're headed out on the Harvest Wine Trail in October, look for Cuvée's Sommelier at various festivals, including the Fredericksburg Food and Wine Festival. Dates and locations will be posted on their web site.

Cuvée is a term for a vat of wine with select components taken from other wines to make a finer blend, a great description for this wine bar, bistro, market, and school. "To me wine is the greatest art form," says White. "You are given a medium by nature, and must express yourself through it. Like other art forms, your favorite wine will affect you differently at different times and emotional stages in your life. By making wine available to everyone as it was intended, you are sharing a great gift of life, nature, and joy. That's why it is such a social beverage."

Leave the big city behind. Stop by Cuvée and celebrate life!