For many years, the conventional wisdom about success in Fredericksburg dictated a location in the four or five blocks centralized on East Main Street "downtown." However, in the face of ever-escalating rents, some gutsy operators are moving outside those parameters. The Navajo Grill moves into a large house surrounded by ample parking on far East Main this summer, and three enterprising young couples have staked their claim on an "uptown" corner at West Main and Milam. Wine merchants Len and Stephanie White have joined forces with former Austin club owners Dan and Lisa Carney and Dallas chef couple Kimberly and Dean Brunner to create Cuvée Bistro, Market, & Wine Bar. The Whites handle the wine, the Carneys are in charge of business and marketing, while the Brunners rule the kitchen.

The partners found an 1860s vintage building that was formerly home to a mercantile store, a saloon, and countless antique shops. They've reimagined it as an inviting bistro, doing most of the interior work themselves. The historic two-story edifice has thick limestone walls, the original hardwood floors, and a handy cellar that doubles as a wine cellar and private dining room with a "chef's table" for personal attention. The main room exudes homey comfort with sofa groupings around low tables. There are also several cafe tables and chairs as well as a granite-topped bar with stools for customers eager for wine education. Self-styled "wine geek" Len White displays a boundless enthusiasm for the wine business. He offers a list of literally hundreds of wines by the glass, the bottle, and the case. He'll schedule a wine class upon request and tailor it to suit your tastes.

A few steps down from the bar, the open kitchen is equipped with shelving and reach-in refrigerators where daytime market patrons can purchase fine quality meats and cheeses, organic produce in season, as well as Kimberly Brunner's excellent artisan breads. Chef Dean Brunner's menu is designed to be wine-friendly and changes almost daily, offering appetizers, soups, salads, light entrées, and desserts in the $6.50 to $16.95 range. Cuvée is already a hit with Fredericksburg locals looking for a pleasant late-night place to unwind and the ownership team hopes to attract some food- and wine-loving tourists, as well.